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Onsen and bathing etiquette

The golden rule of Japanese bathing is to get clean before you get in. The bath is for soaking, not washing, so you wash and rinse at the shower stations first, keep the small towel out of the water and go in without swimwear.

First step
Wash at the stool and shower
Towel
The small towel stays out of the water
Tattoos
Policies vary, so check before you go

Do

  • Wash and rinse thoroughly at the washing station before you get in.
  • Tie up long hair so it stays out of the water.
  • Dry off a little before you go back to the changing room, so the floor stays dry.
  • Drink water, and get out and rest if you feel dizzy.

Avoid

  • Do not wear swimwear, unless the bath is a mixed-wear one that asks for it.
  • Do not put your towel in the bath water.
  • Do not swim, splash or take photos, and leave your phone in the changing room.
  • Do not bathe straight after drinking alcohol, or when you are unwell.

Undress, wash, then soak

Leave your clothes and the large towel in a basket or locker in the changing room, and take only the small towel into the bathing area. Sit on a stool at the washing station, wash your body and hair, and rinse off all the soap.

Then slip into the bath slowly. Soak for a few minutes, rest on the edge if you get hot, and repeat if you like. Many people do not rinse again after soaking, so that the minerals stay on the skin, and just pat themselves dry. Follow any signs about this.

Gender, towels and privacy

Baths are separated by gender, and some switch between the two at set times. The entrance curtain (noren) often shows 男 for men and 女 for women, and the colours are often blue for men and red for women, though not always. Mixed bathing (konyoku) is rare today, and some of those baths ask you to wear a robe or bathing garment.

The small towel is for washing and for modesty as you walk. In the bath, many people fold it on their head. Private baths (kashikiri-buro) can be booked by families and couples.

Tattoos

Tattoos have been linked to organised crime in Japan, and many baths have restricted them. A 2015 survey by the Japan Tourism Agency found that a majority of hotels and inns, 56%, restricted bathing for guests with tattoos. Since then more places have relaxed, with some letting you in if you cover the tattoo with a sticker and others allowing tattoos without conditions.

Policies vary from bath to bath and change, so check with the facility in advance, and respect the answer. A private bath, or a room with its own bath, is a good option if public baths are not possible.

Yukata and ryokan baths

Ryokan give you a cotton robe (yukata) to wear around the inn. Wrap the left side over the right, then tie the belt (obi). Right over left is how the dead are dressed. Slippers or geta are provided, and ryokan baths usually open in the evening and morning, with some closed for cleaning in between.

Good to know

  • Learn to read 男 (men) and 女 (women) before you go.
  • Bring a small towel for modesty, or rent one. A large towel is for drying off afterwards.
  • Drink water before and after to stay hydrated.
  • If you have a heart or blood-pressure condition, or are pregnant, check with a doctor before soaking.

Words you will hear

温泉 onsen
hot spring
大浴場 daiyokujō
large public bath
露天風呂 rotenburo
open-air bath
貸切風呂 kashikiri-buro
private bath
浴衣 yukata
cotton robe
洗い場 araiba
washing station

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Sources: Japan Tourism Agency 2015 survey on tattoo policies; general practice. Rules differ at each bath. Customs vary by region, place and family, and they change over time. When in doubt, follow the signs, watch what others do, or ask politely. Being polite and trying matters more than getting every detail right.